Just when we needed it – Zen Central

After the wilds of the Azores and the cold, wet crowds of Sintra, the Algarve was a kinder, gentler Portugal. It was unexpectedly laid-back, with just the right balance between retaining the local character and having an effective infrastructure for visitors.

The repurposed fisherman’s cottage we had rented was small but comfortable and cute. It was perfectly situated to watch the changing of the tides in the Rio Formosa, the long salt lagoon between the land and the barrier islands that rim the coast. Low water revealed a muddy tidal flat teeming with scarlet fiddler crabs, plovers and the odd black-tailed stork poking about the shallows. At high tide, the small fishing boats resting on their keels in the mud righted themselves and bobbed proudly in the sun. The view of all this from the cottage balcony was spectacular.

As usual, there was a cat. And his mom. And his siblings, cousins, and friends. There was also a bread truck, who backed into the alley and honked to let the small cluster of houses know he’d arrived. And just up the street, one of the area’s best fresh fish restaurants.

Tavira

The nearest big town is Tavira, which is teetering on the brink of turning into a tourist showplace but has not quite got there yet. It has some nice shops, a beautiful walled river, and a cool castle. We spent an afternoon browsing.

Fuzeta

This area is dotted with fishing villages taking advantage of the protection the barrier islands give. These are benefiting, but also changing from the tourist influx. Still many retain their fishing industry, to ensure an alternative economy for the off-season. The closest to us was Fuzeta. The well-equipped harbor has some tourist eateries, a lot of fishing boats, and a speedboat to take you to the barrier island beach for a fee. Once on the island, there was no crush of people, just sand and waves. Then you come back to a cold SuperBock under a grass umbrella. Perfect.